Can it be that New Haven, Connecticut is the birthplace of pizza in America? Or is it Apizza Apocrypha that says Frank Pepe was looking for a use for some stale bread and he just happened to find some tomato sauce nearby?

No matter. History is written by the victors. Or, in the case of restaurants, by the food writers. And dozens of gourmet guidebooks and tomes about pizza point to Pepe's as the standard by which all others are measured.