Reservations

Reservations? You've got to be kidding. This place serves the best pizza in the world, and there's always a line of people waiting to get in, even in the dead of winter, so why would they bother to take reservations?

You don't need no stinkin' reservations. You just need an attitude adjustment. There's a joy in anticipation. Consider it "epicurean tension." Keep that in mind while you're waiting an hour and a half before the line gets up to the door. Remember : Inside it will be warm and you will soon have Pepe's pizza.

No soup, No salad, no sandwiches. Just pizza. Open daily 11 a.m. until 10 p.m.

If you want to avoid the wait, you can always have your dinner in the late afternoon. Or you can phone in an order; then they'll tell YOU what time it will be ready to pick up. But if you do order out, you'll miss the full Pepe's experience (see History and Families).

You'll also miss the camaraderie of standing in line with a community of gastronomes whose good taste equals your own. You'll not find more discriminating people waiting in line for the next Impressionist road show at the Met.

You'll miss the shared experience of chatting with strangers who, even in a downpour, tend to remain in a good mood because they know they'll soon be in a better place.

They'll enter that place as soon as the waiter (right) comes to the door and asks, "How many?"